ENGLISH BULLDOG PUPPIES FOR SALE

PAINT HORSES, ENGLISH BULLDOGS AND FRENCH BULLDOGS

 

                              Our Stud's @ CA

              Toby                                                                         Diesel

All dogs are AKC registered  & DNA on File

8 CHAMPIONS IN A 3 GENERATION PEDIGREE! CLICK HERE for more breeding info and pedigrees.

Toby (Toby Keith=TK)  is champion sired and bred by the Top Bulldog breeders in the country....Trimbull Bulldogs

Toby's dad below red and white English bulldog


CH Trimbull no looking back

Diesel's lines consist of Mike-mar's Bulldogs,brookhollow bulldogs,Hickory Meadows Bulldogs.

          Outside stud's             
       

      Nikko                                Winston

Owned by The Henley's                     Owned by The Kasper's

Both are AKC 

stud fee/puppy pick options are available

Previously sold Puppy's with Life-time Guarantees

see available pups on puppy page click here  AVAILABLE PUPPIES

mini bulldogs are not cross bred in any way to make them mini they are genetically smaller (20-40lbs) any standard bulldog will throw a mini. We do not cross breed any of our dogs!

 

      

         

                     

      

         

 

               

 

 

                       

 

     

 

~*~*HERE ARE SOME STANDARD SIZE GIRLS  @CA~*~*

 

~*~*~* Bling-Bling ~*~*~* Red Brindle English Bulldog Standard size 55lbs

 


~*~*~*Fatsy-cline~*~*~* Red and White English Bulldog Standard size 60lbs

 

 

 *~*~Rollsey O'Donnell*~*~ fawn and white english bulldog standard 50 lbs

 

 

   Murtle-Turtle.............Diesel & Maggie daughter

 

 

   Hanna Montana........Our 1st Toby & Rollsey daughter  

 

 

 

    ~*~*The Mini's ~*~*

~*~*~*Piggy-poo ~*~*~* Red and White mini English Bulldog 30lbs

 

 

~*~*maggie-pie ~*~* 

Maggie is a mini Red Brindle English Bulldog 35lbs

 

 


 

~*~*Pitty-Sue    the gangsta! (gangster)~*~*

red brindle mini female 35lbs~*~*

 

~*~* Beetle-juice~*~*

Mini/standard gray english Bulldog 35lbs

 Our Life-Time Guarantee

What we offer is as followed on all our English Bulldogs............

You as the new puppy owner , Have 3 days to have your new baby examined by a licensed veterinarian of choice, Warranty is void if more

 then the 5 day period!   You must notify the breeder Lisa Craven the results of your Pre-purchase exam within 24 hours. But do your homework! You are hiring that vet to depend on your puppy's health! Ask question Are they in fact

 very familiar with the French Bulldogs and the English Bulldog breeds? Specialization? Again these dogs require and depend on more

 knowledge individuals then the average Lab allot of vets do not like the English or French bulldogs for they are usually more mutinied by

bad breeders.

Your new baby  English Bulldog has a 3 year  guarantee of life threatening diseases caused by hereditary disorders when proven to be hereditary(autopsy)You are replaced with another choice of Puppy when available,there will not be any money exchange you have credit of the purchase price of your Pet.This guarantee also requires feeding Life's Abundance foods for the life of your pet it is thee #1 holistic food on the market see video below for more info. Made by vets ,fed by vets! I cannot be responsible for clients feeding other foods found on recall lists or are made of crap because its cheap....that is why I offer this warranty its for the health of your new baby! If your Bulldog Dies within the expected life of the breed due to proven hereditary dysfunction within 6 years you qualify for a 35% off next new purchase of one of our Bulldogs.There are common diseases that run in the bulldog breed, Past from generation to generation although not in there immediate family, Just one benefit from buying from us is they are all here! Great Grandparents,Aunts,Uncles and full siblings. These things are as followed are considered normal in the breed but (knock on wood) here at CA you will not see these things, So come see for yourself and you decide.

 

#1-Cherry-Eye                                             

#2-Entropion(turned in eye lid)

#3-Skin allergies

#4-Loose hips

#5-Elongated soft palate

#6-Stenotic snares(pinched nostrils)

#7-luxating patellas(mild cases)

Your puppy guarantees to be covered under Severe hip diplasia which hampers the dogs movement and natural gait and which requires surgery to correct,Kidney,Heart,Pancreas,Spine and Liver problems of severe,Life threatning or altering nature. if the dog dies within this 3 year time frame.the buyer must pay to have an autopsy done to determine the reason for death.If the reason is to be found congentital, the seller will replace puppy. So if the dog dies within the 6 years you qualify for 35% off on your next new baby.  The 6 years is just a good all around estimate Ive seen  Bulldogs live intill there teens so it all depends on you! Keep in mind the 3 reasons for a Bulldog to die is from HEAT , ASPIRATION  or BLOAT there is no warranty that covers this under any circumstances! Things listed above 1-7 can also be brought on by small living quarters We do not recomend small crate training! A puppy is going to potty regardless! There little bladders can hold so long, Get the largest crate to size for an adult Bulldog. We highly recomend HARNESSES no COLLARS these guys are strong and press on there necks which limits air flow the no- pull harnesses are great they go up under the arm pitts!

 Vet references

These are my vets,

 feel free to contact them at any time for a full reference on

Craven acres...................

Delaware Valley Veterinary Hospital    856-241-1100

Dr . John  Vinciguerra VMD  856-769-0165

 Nutrition

http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com)

1. HOW DIGESTABLE ARE YOUR INGREDIENTS?
1st 2nd 3rd 4th And so on….
You never want Corn or By-Products in your first 4 at the least. Do your homework you would be surprised!These are un-digestible.
By-Products are what the slaughterhouse throws away- (Chicken-By-Products) for example are: Beak-Feet and Intestines.
CORN is NOT digestible, it goes out the same way that it goes in.
You get more meat with Chicken or Lamb Meal, than wet meat. Meat meal is wet meat with water and fat cooked out. It is turned into a concentrated form of meat. Wet meat is 80% water.
Soybean- used as a protein source in food instead of meat causes alot of uncomfortable GAS! and skin allergies.
Corn Gluten- liquid part of corn that is digestible protein and it makes it tasty for the dog.
Rice or Ground Rice- easiest grain to digest- very good.
Barley- digestible grain.
*****VERY IMPORTANT*****
Unidentified Sources - whenever you see the word “meat” or “animal” instead of Chicken, Lamb, Beef, etc. BEWARE of these. It’s something that they don’t want to list in ingredients because it could have come from Horse or something worse not saying horse is bad but its not my first choice for we make horses for pleasure purposes we dont feed them to our dogs!.
Brewers Rice - easy to digest but it’s what’s left over after brewing beer, so nutrients have been cooked out.
Wheat or Wheat Flour - digestible grain.
Sorgham - sweet stuff to get the dog hooked on the taste.
 
2. HOW IS IT PRESERVED?
Mixed Tocoperals-is a natural form of vitamin E. It’s derived from fat or oils. This is a good natural way to preserve. Some food is chemically preserved with BHA or BHT. AVOID chemically preserved at all costs. They are doing cancer carcinogen tests on BHA now. It’s believed to cause cancer in animals- but not proven yet. If it’s in their food, they are getting a dose of it with every bite.
3. SUPPLEMENTS
What has been added to the food to improve skin and coat or to protect joints is; Linoleic Acid and Omega Fatty Acid are skin and coat supplements. Glucosamine Chondroitin is for joint protection. Glucosamine doesn’t work well without the Chondroitin. Pet-Tabs are great they like them and you can get a complete line with the joint supplement as well.  Nutra-Cal i use for newborns,Dyne by Trophy is a great product for anytime stress is a factor or someone needs an extra  kick!
4. FOOD ALLERGIES
Symptoms are: Chewing on paws or legs, itches without fleas, Rashes on the tummy, prone to ear infections or hot spots.
MAIN FOOD ALLERGY TRIGGERS:
CORN, BEEF, WHEAT, SOY,high proteins,CAT FOOD! - It’s what’s pumped into cow that is the trigger like, Bovine Growth, Steroids, Euthanasia drug.
For a HYPO-ALLERGENIC FOOD TRY: LIFE'S ABUNDANCE.  It takes about 8 weeks for the dog to de-tox allergy triggers off other foods.
5. CANNED FOOD
It is 80% water. It is not very nutritional. It rots out teeth and gums over time. It’s just like ketchup or mustard, not dinner. If you need it to get a dog to eat dry food, go 75% dry to 25% wet. Or, try Chicken and Rice soup at the grocery store.Oodles of noodles,To hide meds use liver wurst its cheap and dogs love it!
6. HOW TO TRANSISTION A DOG FROM ONE FOOD TO ANOTHER.
It’s very important to gradually begin to mix the new food with the old food, if not, they can get an upset tummy, gas and loose stools. Starting with day one, you will put 75% old food to 25% new food for at least 3 days. Then 50% old food to 50% new food for at least 3 days. Then 75% new food to 25% old food for at least 3 days.
7. I feed Life's Abundance , there guarantee is that your dog will eat it!..Daisey who is my picky eater will not turn her nose up at this food.  My boxers are 15 going on 16 and are in A-plus condition muscle,weight and joint, just a little gray but i cant change youth!...lol ...pics below....... The new and upcomoming feed Life's Abundance  can not be bought in stores it is delivered fresh and is a pure holistic food.  You can see a video of this food if intrested in feeding the best to your pet. I have taken the time to do my research and found that there are better and healthier things available to us now and i simply just want the best for my animals we here at CA design our own feed for the horses as well ,with the help of Moyers Feeds also delivered here to CA freshly made.
 Duke just passed due to old age he was 16 years old 9/20/08 he is sadly missed
  Daisey is getting slow she is a half sister to Duke same mom(Sadie) still truckin with me at 17 years old............True COWGIRL

~*~* FOOD ORDERS HERE (LIFE"S ABUNDANCE)~*~*~*

 

LIFE'S ABUNDANCE TO ORDER MORE FOODS click the pink link below OR CALL ORDERS in MAKE SHURE USING my ID #40053463 IF CALLING IN THE # IS 1-877-387-4564 Clients this is how i know your using the food reccomended for your 6 year warranty!

http://www.healthypetnet.com/healthypetnet/home.aspx?realname=40053463

 

Watch video you will be amazed!

US Food and Drug Administration  food recals


 Information current as of March 5, 2008 Note:This compiled list represents all pet food recalled since March 2007. If and when new information is received, this list will be updated. The “Information Current as of…” date provided above indicates when this Web page was updated; it does not indicate the date when the pet food recalls listed below were initiated. Once listed, each of the recalled pet food products remains listed, even if there are no new recalls associated with that product. Although we have taken care to make sure the information is accurate, if we learn that any information is not accurate we will revise the list as soon as possible.

 

Vaccinations

 

 

Your dog should be properly vaccinated against certain diseases at certain times to help protect him and other animals he may come in to contact with. The following is an explanation of vaccinations and why they should be given.

When you get a puppy, most likely your veterinarian will recommend a series of three sets of vaccinations. These will generally be given at 2 to 4  week intervals starting at six weeks of age and then again at 8 weeks. The first vaccine will most likely be referred to as "puppy shot." This is usually a combination shot that will protect your dog against distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza, leptospirosis, and coronavirus. When your pups leaves from us he has recieved 2 shots and will need another at his 10-12 week age to complete the series.

1) Distemper -a highly contagious disease caused by a virus that is similar to measles in humans. It can affect dogs of all ages but is most often seen in unvaccinated puppies. It attacks the gastrointestinal, respiratory, and nervous systems. Symptoms include cough, nasal and eye discharge, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea. In advanced stages, dogs may show neurological problems such as lack of coordination, weakness, and seizures. Treatment includes fluids and antibiotics but prognosis is guarded and in about half of the cases, Distemper is fatal.

2) Hepatitis -which affects the liver, pancreas, kidneys, and the lining of blood vessels. It causes fever, abdominal pain, diarrhea, and lethargy. Treatment includes administration of fluids and antibiotics but in serious cases a blood transfusion may be necessary. The severity of the disease varies but young puppies often die from Hepatitis.

3) Parainfluenza - caused by a virus and is quite mild in comparison with other infectious diseases. Symptoms include sneezing, discharge from the eyes and nose, and coughing. Treatment varies but in many cases, no treatment is required.

4) Leptospirosis which is transmitted by contact with water contaminated with infected urine. It affects the urinary tract, kidneys, and liver. Symptoms include vomiting, lethargy, and abdominal pain. In further stages of the disease, dogs may become very thirsty and have a low temperature. Treatment includes antibiotics and fluid therapy. Please note however that some dogs are allergic to the leptospirosis vaccine.(Collie) Please check with your veterinarian if you have questions or concerns. Often times the leptospirosis component is not a part of your puppy shots and will be administered annually starting the next year your dog is due for vaccination.

5) Coronavirus which causes inflammation of the intestines and diarrhea. This disease most often affects puppies. Symptoms include decreased appetite, orange or yellow diarrhea, lethargy, and fever. Treatment includes fluid administration and antibiotics. Prognosis is usually good. The distemper combination vaccine is given annually after the first three series.

At your second visit (or at age 12 weeks), if you plan to take your dog to puppy class or he will be around other dogs, it is a good idea to get him vaccinated for Bordetella Bronchiseptica. Bordetella Bronchiseptica is most often referred to as Kennel Cough. This disease is incredibly infectious and is usually transmitted in areas where many dogs are together such as boarding facilities, doggy day care, and dog parks. If your dog becomes infected, you will notice a dry cough. Infected dogs are usually treated with antibiotics. Keep in mind that even though most places that take in multiple dogs require immunization to Bordetella, no vaccine is 100% effective so your dog may still become ill with this disease. This vaccine comes in both intranasal and injectible form. The intranasal form is dribbled into your dog's nostrils. Your dog may need a booster of the Bordetella vaccine at his 16 week visit and annually after that.

At age 16 weeks, your dog can be vaccinated for Rabies. Rabies is usually transmitted to dogs through saliva - most often in the form of a bite from an infected animal. Rabies affects all warm blooded animals but is most often found in bats, skunks, and raccoons. Rabies is always fatal. In many states, rabies vaccination is required by law. Check with your veterinarian on how often this immunization is recommended as protocols may vary. If your dog becomes infected with Rabies, you may notice subtle behavioral changes at first. This may be accompanied by fever, vomiting, and diarrhea. The best defense against Rabies is to make certain your dog is properly immunized.

Breed Standard AKC                                      

General Appearance
The perfect Bulldog must be of medium size and smooth coat; with heavy, thick-set, low-swung body, massive short-faced head, wide shoulders and sturdy limbs. The general appearance and attitude should suggest great stability, vigor and strength. The disposition should be equable and kind, resolute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavior.

Size, Proportion, Symmetry
Size--The size for mature dogs is about 60 pounds; for mature bitches about 50 pounds. Mini's run 40lbs and under at adult size.

Proportion--The circumference of the skull in front of the ears should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders.

Symmetry--The "points" should be well distributed and bear good relation one to the other, no feature being in such prominence from either excess or lack of quality that the animal appears deformed or ill-proportioned. Influence of Sex In comparison of specimens of different sex, due allowance should be made in favor of the bitches, which do not bear the characteristics of the breed to the same degree of perfection and grandeur as do the dogs.

Head
Eyes and Eyelids--The eyes, seen from the front, should be situated low down in the skull, as far from the ears as possible, and their corners should be in a straight line at right angles with the stop. They should be quite in front of the head, as wide apart as possible, provided their outer corners are within the outline of the cheeks when viewed from the front. They should be quite round in form, of moderate size, neither sunken nor bulging, and in color should be very dark. The lids should cover the white of the eyeball, when the dog is looking directly forward, and the lid should show no "haw." Ears--The ears should be set high in the head, the front inner edge of each ear joining the outline of the skull at the top back corner of skull, so as to place them as wide apart, and as high, and as far from the eyes as possible. In size they should be small and thin. The shape termed "rose ear" is the most desirable. The rose ear folds inward at its back lower edge, the upper front edge curving over, outward and backward, showing part of the inside of the burr. (The ears should not be carried erect or prick-eared or buttoned and should never be cropped.) Skull--The skull should be very large, and in circumference, in front of the ears, should measure at least the height of the dog at the shoulders. Viewed from the front, it should appear very high from the corner of the lower jaw to the apex of the skull, and also very broad and square. Viewed at the side, the head should appear very high, and very short from the point of the nose to occiput. The forehead should be flat (not rounded or domed), neither too prominent nor overhanging the face. Cheeks--The cheeks should be well rounded, protruding sideways and outward beyond the eyes. Stop--The temples or frontal bones should be very well defined, broad, square and high, causing a hollow or groove between the eyes. This indentation, or stop, should be both broad and deep and extend up the middle of the forehead, dividing the head vertically, being traceable to the top of the skull. Face and Muzzle--The face, measured from the front of the cheekbone to the tip of the nose, should be extremely short, the muzzle being very short, broad, turned upward and very deep from the corner of the eye to the corner of the mouth. Nose--The nose should be large, broad and black, its tip set back deeply between the eyes. The distance from bottom of stop, between the eyes, to the tip of nose should be as short as possible and not exceed the length from the tip of nose to the edge of underlip. The nostrils should be wide, large and black, with a well-defined line between them. Any nose other than black is objectionable and a brown or liver-colored nose shall disqualify. Lips--The chops or "flews" should be thick, broad, pendant and very deep, completely overhanging the lower jaw at each side. They join the underlip in front and almost or quite cover the teeth, which should be scarcely noticeable when the mouth is closed. Bite--Jaws--The jaws should be massive, very broad, square and "undershot," the lower jaw projecting considerably in front of the upper jaw and turning up. Teeth The teeth should be large and strong, with the canine teeth or tusks wide apart, and the six small teeth in front, between the canines, in an even, level row.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck The neck should be short, very thick, deep and strong and well arched at the back. Topline There should be a slight fall in the back, close behind the shoulders (its loWest part), whence the spine should rise to the loins (the top of which should be higher than the top of the shoulders), thence curving again more suddenly to the tail, forming an arch (a very distinctive feature of the breed), termed "roach back" or, more correctly, "wheel-back." Body--The brisket and body should be very capacious, with full sides, well-rounded ribs and very deep from the shoulders down to its loWest part, where it joins the chest. It should be well let down between the shoulders and forelegs, giving the dog a broad, low, short-legged appearance. Chest--The chest should be very broad, deep and full. Underline--The body should be well ribbed up behind with the belly tucked up and not rotund. Back and Loin--The back should be short and strong, very broad at the shoulders and comparatively narrow at the loins. Tail--The tail may be either straight or "screwed" (but never curved or curly), and in any case must be short, hung low, with decided downward carriage, thick root and fine tip. If straight, the tail should be cylindrical and of uniform taper. If "screwed," the bends or kinks should be well defined, and they may be abrupt and even knotty, but no portion of the member should be elevated above the base or root.

Forequarters
Shoulders--The shoulders should be muscular, very heavy, widespread and slanting outward, giving stability and great power. Forelegs--The forelegs should be short, very stout, straight and muscular, set wide apart, with well developed calves, presenting a bowed outline, but the bones of the legs should not be curved or bandy, nor the feet brought too close together. Elbows--The elbows should be low and stand well out and loose from the body. Feet-- The feet should be moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles and very short stubby nails. The front feet may be straight or slightly out-turned.

Hindquarters
Legs--The hind legs should be strong and muscular and longer than the forelegs, so as to elevate the loins above the shoulders. Hocks should be slightly bent and well let down, so as to give length and strength from the loins to hock. The lower leg should be short, straight and strong, with the stifles turned slightly outward and away from the body. The hocks are thereby made to approach each other, and the hind feet to turn outward. Feet--The feet should be moderate in size, compact and firmly set. Toes compact, well split up, with high knuckles and short stubby nails. The hind feet should be pointed well outward.

Coat and Skin
Coat--The coat should be straight, short, flat, close, of fine texture, smooth and glossy. (No fringe, feather or curl.) Skin--The skin should be soft and loose, especially at the head, neck and shoulders. Wrinkles and Dewlap--The head and face should be covered with heavy wrinkles, and at the throat, from jaw to chest, there should be two loose pendulous folds, forming the dewlap.

Color of Coat
The color of coat should be uniform, pure of its kind and brilliant. The various colors found in the breed are to be preferred in the following order: (1) red brindle, (2) all other brindles, (3) solid white, (4) solid red, fawn or fallow, (5) piebald, (6) inferior qualities of all the foregoing. Note: A perfect piebald is preferable to a muddy brindle or defective solid color. Solid black is very undesirable, but not so objectionable if occurring to a moderate degree in piebald patches. The brindles to be perfect should have a fine, even and equal distribution of the composite colors. In brindles and solid colors a small white patch on the chest is not considered detrimental. In piebalds the color patches should be well defined, of pure color and symmetrically distributed.

Gait
The style and carriage are peculiar, his gait being a loose-jointed, shuffling, sidewise motion, giving the characteristic "roll." The action must, however, be unrestrained, free and vigorous.

Temperament
The disposition should be equable and kind, resolute and courageous (not vicious or aggressive), and demeanor should be pacific and dignified. These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavior.

 

 

                             THE CANINE GLADIATOR

The beginnings of the Bulldog as a breed are found to be recorded as the observations of the blood sports known as bull baiting and bear baiting.  These popular pastimes of the masses can be traced back to the year 1209, and were finally banned, but not forgotten, in 1835 in England.
The following is a description of bull baiting, and how the influence of this blood sport directed the breeding and the peculiar features of the Bulldog.
Bull baiting probably got its start in England from people observing the butcher's dogs attempting to restrain livestock. Of course, there are always those people who will say, "I'll bet that dog of mine can do better that that!"  And the natural response is, "Oh, yeah?  Put your money where your mouth is!" (it could be words to that effect). Well, who can resist such temptation?
The fight was staged in a field, a pit or an arena. The idea of bull baiting was for the dog to engage the bull.  It didn't necessarily have to be one on one.  It could be several dogs against one bull. The dogs were trained (if the training was done correctly) to creep upon its belly close enough to be able to grab the bull's nose. The bull, knowing this is the dog's intention, lowers it's head where the horns are ready to defend by tossing the offending creature into the air, or perchance to gore the dog and stomp its guts out.
Every gambler wants to have the proverbial "ace up his sleeve", so they would observe which dogs were successful, and which were not. What was it that worked to the dogs' advantage?  What were it's strengths and weaknesses?  What about the bull?  These were full grown animals that they were using in these fights.  How did bulls fight?  What was the posture?  How did they attack?  How did they defend themselves?  Where can we find somebody better?
The Bulldog is the result of mankind's desire to shape an animal about a specific purpose.  The shoulders of the Bulldog are placed on the outside of the body, allowing the dog to crouch low to the ground shielding the dog from the bull's horns when it charges.  As the bull passes by, the head and forequarters are very well developed, so that the dog is able to spring to the bull's ears or throat.  Once the dog has latched on, the hindquarters of the Bulldog are not as well developed as the forequarters, allowing the dog to be shaken violently without suffering any spinal injuries.  Should the Bulldog be successful in latching onto the nose of the bull, the dog's rib cage is well developed and padded, so when the bull whirls the dog around and brings it down to the ground it can take the brunt of the blow.  The legs are short and sturdy, allowing the dog to easily spring to its feet and avoid the crushing hooves of the bull.  We now come to the head of the Bulldog.  Even this part of the dog was part of the fighting machine.  Specifically, the jaws and the vise like grip that they exert.  The jaws are short, and the lower jawbone (mandible) is longer than the upper jawbone, which enables the dog to hang onto whatever it wants with a surprising tenaciousness.  The amazing ability of this grip is demonstrated by the dog being able to move the jaws in a manner that it can hang onto the throat of the bull and shred the flesh, sinew and muscle until it reaches the jugular artery. Even if the Bulldog is knocked out during the fight, the jaws of this breed of dog, once locked, remain locked (most Mastiff breeds also retain this ability that is similar to that of snapping turtles, and eels).   As the Bulldog continues to hang on, the bull is brought down by it's bleeding to death.  The dog's face being wrinkly, the bull's blood flows down the dog's face under it's chin, rather than into it's eyes.
Should the Bulldog be able to latch onto the bull's nose, the Bulldog has a short snout and the nares face upward to allow breathing, while retaining its grip on the bull's nose.  The bull is, in the meantime, suffocating, due to the loose jowls of the Bulldog blocking the passage of air.
If you have ever observed the power, strength and agility of the bull during a rodeo, the cowboy, that is trying to ride for eight seconds, is hanging on for his life.  Now replace the cowboy with dogs, and both combatants are fighting for their lives.
The Bulldog of the age of bull baiting and bear baiting was a tenacious animal, but it also possessed unlimited devotion to it's master.  It could be injured, bleeding, indeed dying, but if the master ordered the dog to attack once again, the Bulldog would engage it's opponent without hesitation.
Today's Bulldog has been bred so that the combatant urges are no longer there.  The Bulldog doesn't see any sense in attacking a bull.  But let anyone, or anything, threaten it's master, or his family ... the old nature of combat, kill or be killed, will resurface.
The tenacious personality of the Bulldog is one of the reasons why this breed is the mascot of the U.S.Marine Corps.


Welcome

Newest Members

lasallebulldogsFrank AlbaneseTom Kube  

Recent Forum Posts

by Carrie Cox 10 days ago
by Alice 3 weeks ago
by Teena 3 weeks ago

Recent Photos